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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 16, 2016 9:20:50 GMT
just buy a pack of 30cm dupont male to male jumper wires.
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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 15, 2016 9:19:48 GMT
As far as switching is concerned your best bet is a passive VGA switch box. These are only a few quid on eBay now. My monitor supports both 15khz and 31khz on the VGA input so I can switch between real VGA signals and the CGA on the 80 col with ease. Sadly the S-Vid to VGA looks like total shit so my plan to use that on the VGA monitor is on hold. I must try the actual composite picture to see how that looks. I don't even have a composite cable at the moment! I am still interested in hydrophilic's solution with only 2 chips More details please! (btw, I obviously say that MY version is the best. I would recommend it if I could actually build them as fast as I sell them).
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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 14, 2016 11:15:52 GMT
I should probably work on finishing it then!
I just noticed that the exit doesn't flash when you have enough gems. This makes it almost impossible to find on the levels where it's in the side wall. Luckily I know where it is on the map, but I need to put the screen flash and continued exit flashing in, as well as the rest of the levels.
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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 14, 2016 8:33:45 GMT
When you say RGBI-VGA I get quite hopeful, but I guess you mean RGBI to RGB and there is no built in 15->31khz conversion? If you did line doubling I would jump for joy Come on, more details.
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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 14, 2016 8:29:17 GMT
Aww man. I have yet to find one person who has actually run it in VGA apart from me I am starting to wonder if writing games for VGA out of the (hardly used) 80 col output of a 30 year old computer that plays second fiddle to the 64 (and is mostly used in 64 mode) is going to give me the biggest target audience....
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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 7, 2016 21:27:05 GMT
I would say just google the pinout and get some jumper wires. Arduino style male to male jumpers will probably push into a C64 KB plug as well as the actual DType socket on the 128 MB. ( I assume the socket on the 128 is female?) You could bodge a 64 KB on there for play and testing and I expect a jumper between 2 of the remaining pins would do the 40\80 switch if you needed it. No long term mods hacks or damage. Just some long jumper wires and a bit of work getting them in the right places.
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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 7, 2016 21:23:41 GMT
Just to say, saw some photos. That is one AWESOME PET. Love the work, the idea, the execution, everything. Great work.
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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 7, 2016 8:10:23 GMT
don't forget that PSU is running both the 128 and a floppy drive So twice the normal power that would be required for a 128. I am glad to hear that my game has spurred the repair of a 128 No greater compliment than that I think. That machine does need some cleaning though! As to the keyboard. The 128D I think had the same KB connector on the motherboard as the flat but without pins. I don't think the KB from the flat can connect directly to the connector you have. You also shouldn't (Please dont!) cut up or destroy the flat in any way! You can probably bodge a C64 keyboard onto a Dtype plug easily as it's the same matrix for compatibility, (some idiot is selling these on eBay for stupid money for the 128) but you just have a few missing keys, one of which is the 40/80. You don't NEED that as my game just forces it in software anyway but you can easily wire in a few extra switches.
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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 4, 2016 13:04:55 GMT
Good luck on getting it going!
I didn't realise the DCR was so different. Looking at your photos I didn't even recognise the layout of the chips at all.
Fingers crossed you can get it running ok. At least if it's just "not enough power" then there should be no damage.
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Post by Pyrofer on Dec 2, 2016 7:32:39 GMT
Check, check and check again. Look at the schematic here, I think this applies to your on3, www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cbm/schematics/computers/c128/310378-1-left.gifThe 6 pin post connector has no 12v in. It has 9vac and 5v. You can run the 128 on EITHER 9vAC+5vDC OR 5v/12v DC. Make sure the grounds are correct. Make sure 5v is correct. Check the PSU has enough power, you are looking for 3amp or so here. Personally I would just use 12vDC on pin 5 of the post connector as I didn't have the 9vAC when I last tried, but 5v12v powered my 128 fine. the 12v DC inside the 128 is generated from the 9vAC, so you need either/or, not both.
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